Sofia Opera, Bulgaria

15.01.2008

The restoration of the stunning opera house adds a traditional twist to the burgeoning cultural quarter of Blizo, in Bulgaria's capital Sofia

The initial rise of the Sofia National Opera in 1890, like most events in Bulgaria's turbulent past, was anything but smooth. And it's not surprising that the country's political turmoil eventually forced opera enthusiasts to put a hold on their favourite pastime. But after World War II, when bombs had dashed the spirits of Sofia's citizens and devastated the design of its urban landscape, opera rose once again. Now, more than half a century later, tickets are under €10, champagne is served at intermission and performance quality is improving. Just up from the intersection of Rakovsky and Dondukov and a block down from Sofia's art alley and eclectic flea market, the Blizo Opera is also re-emerging as the nucleus of a no-longer oppressed neighbourhood.

SEE
Climb up the hill and through the churchyard that takes you past the Jewish refugee memorial, and take in the imposing Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. This neo-byzantine, gold-domed and mint-green basilica, finished in 1912, was built to remember and honour the Russians who died in the Russo-Turkish war and subsequently freed Bulgaria from 500 years of Turkish rule. Inside, the fire-and-chain chandeliers cast a humble glow and dark knaves of towering saints make for a haunting and unusual spiritual experience. The left entrance offers a trip to the underground crypt. For a cushioned seat, umbrella and tall glass of beer with your view, visit the bar outside the Foreign Art gallery, just north-east of the roundabout.

EAT
The aptly named Opera (113 Rakovski St, Tel. +359 2988 2141) may seem an obvious choice for a bite to eat, given how many of the tenors, sopranos and stage-hands eat there. After a string of unsuccessful owners, Opera has finally struck a chord of permanence and is managing to reinvent itself while retaining a sense of history. Ruffled with vintage velvet, a ballroom-size mirror, gold-leaf-clawed crystal, and the opulence that audience members and performers expect, there is no doubting the restaurant's theatrical spirit. For a slightly more subdued experience, Uno BBQ (121 Rakovski St, Tel. +359 2980 5958), maintains traditional elegance with a trend-setting twist, and the brick-backed bar and low ceilings make it a wine cellar-like hideaway. Almond-encrusted Camembert and Italian saltimbocca are as rich as you'd expect.

A MEET
Down the alley from the white lights of the opera house is Arosita (12B Vrabcha, Tel. +359 2986 7332), an antique-adorned tavern, full of personality with no more than ten seats, just a few drink choices and only a glass dish of almonds to crunch between brandies. Find fashion, attitude and an alternative kind of fairytale at Tabaco (6 Moskovska St, Tel. +359 2989 4696). This popular patio sprawls from the back of a government building toward a shady forest of grim, stone statues with leafy crowns. The Puzzling blend of socialist ghosts and socialite divas will scratch at your senses. Laidback servers, well-mixed drinks and a lavish bar all point a nose high into the air, but no one minds. They're too busy having a good time.